Precious Metals

Gold
Gold, a true example of a wonderful metal, it will not corrode, rust, or tarnish and although it is very strong, it is also the most malleable of all metals. The purity of gold is measured in karats, and in 24 parts. 24K, is gold in its purest form, 12K being 50% gold and 50% alloy. 24K gold is very soft, and is not ideal for jewelry and its everyday use and wear. Alloys such as silver, copper, nickel, and zinc are added to gold for strength and color. 18k gold is durable yet, has a beautiful appearance. 14K is very strong due to the amount of alloy included and still offers a beautiful shine, this is the most common karat used in jewelry. 10K is the strongest of the karats, it has 41.7% gold and a larger amount of alloy.

Color - White Gold VS. Yellow Gold
The color of gold is established by the percent of alloy added to the gold. When gold is alloyed with copper, silver, and zinc, the shades of yellow will differ. The less alloy the brighter the gold’s color will be. If gold is alloyed with nickel, copper, and zinc, it turns to white gold. Yellow gold and white gold normally share the same malleability and strength as each other. White gold’s color is comparable to platinum, but these two metals have separate properties and cost much different. White gold can also contain "Rhodium", which is a form of the platinum family. This is usually added as a "plating", which brightens the white color. Because the two are so similar, choosing between the two colors all depends upon a person’s personal taste.

Platinum
Platinum is relatively rare, and is more valuable than gold. It has become the most precious of all metals used in jewelry. Its popularity has surfaced in recent years due to its durability and nice silver–white color. Platinum is heavy and is offered in a purer form. Small amounts of iridium and ruthenium, rare metals in the platinum family, are usually added to increase its hardness and durability. Jewelry that is made is usually 95% platinum and 5% alloy. Platinum is not measured by karats like gold, but is stamped PT or PLAT to identify that it is platinum and will be accompanied by the number 950. Jewelry Settings made of platinum provides a nice accent to white diamonds. Platinum has a less chance of turning color than white gold due to its purity. It can be polished easily to restore its beautiful finish. This metal is also an excellent choice for people who may be allergic to other metals such as nickel, which may be added to gold.

Silver
Silver is another popular metal used in jewelry. It is bright and durable, and more abundant than gold. It does not carry the popularity like gold or platinum because it does tarnish and looses it bright shiny color easily. Jewelers will avoid using silver in a diamond setting or as fine jewelry due to this. It is less expensive because of its flaws and is more readily available unlike gold or platinum.

Titanium
Titanium is a light, strong, lustrous, corrosion-resistant (including resistance to sea water and chlorine) transition metal with a silvery-white-metallic color. Titanium can be alloyed with other elements such as iron, aluminum, and others, to produce strong lightweight alloys. The two most useful properties of the metal form are corrosion resistance, and the highest strength-to-weight ratio of any metal. In its unalloyed condition, titanium is as strong as steel, but 45% lighter. The use of Titanium in the jewelry industry is becoming increasingly popular because of it's attractive characteristics such as it's durability and resistance to corrosion.

Commercially pure titanium can be cut, polished, engraved, and reworked using traditional jewelers equipment. Although harder and more resilient than other jewelry materials, it can be safely removed by using standard cutting tools.

Tungsten Carbide
A chemical compound containing tungsten and carbon, similar to titanium carbide. Its extreme hardness makes it useful in the manufacture of cutting tools, abrasives and bearings, as a cheaper and more heat-resistant alternative to diamond. Tungsten carbide is also used as a scratch-resistant material for jewelry including watch bands and wedding rings.

Tungsten carbide can now be found in the inventory of some jewelers, most notably as the primary material in men's wedding bands. When used in this application the bands appear with a lustrous dark hue often polished to a mirror finish. The finish is highly resistant to scratches and scuffs, holding its mirror-like shine for years.

Back to Learning Center